Jon Boat Repainting

Ray N

I need some help here too… My jon boat is 40 something years old so it needs a new paint job. It is aluminum and only 10 feet. I cleaned up the outside and used a product called gluvit. It sealed the boat very well however it turned yellow. So all my hard work getting the bottom to shine feels like a complete waste!

I did go out and by self etching primer and put two layers down. It scratched off so easily! Right on the bottle it reads “for all types of Metals and Bare Aluminum.

So now I’m stuck. I cleaned a majority of the paint off and cleaned the boat very well. I went to west marine and they don’t have any answers for me.

Anyone have any experience with repainting an aluminum jon boat and can share some secrets with me?

Posted by Ray N Elite Member created over 5 years ago - last updated over 5 years ago
988 views - 7 responses -

Adam Trahim

Hey Ray, I am a body man by trade. What the ideal senerio intales is removing all the material on the boat down to the aluminum. I would do that with some 150 grit paper by hand or machine what ever you have. If you use a machine, prefferebly use a dual action sander.


Once the boat is stripped, you need to degrease it before putting down a primer. You can use foaming glass cleaner in a can to clean the surface.

Then you apply a light coat of etch, just to cover not build material.

Then you want to use a epoxy primer over the etch. It will be your first water tight seal. Once it dry's you want to sand or scuff it back up prior to panting it to get good adhesion. You can go as low as 320, up to 600 grit paper for that. Basically what ever the paint will fill.


It is important to use a good water proof paint of your choice.


If you need more help just ask!

Posted by Adam Trahim over 5 years ago - Report Abuse

Adam Trahim

Almost forgot, most of the products you buy should give some insight as to what kind of prep is needed for best results. Even if you gotta search online it is always better to know!

Posted by Adam Trahim over 5 years ago - Report Abuse

Ray N

thank you for your the tips not sure if I'm gonna get around to it

Posted by Ray N Elite Member over 5 years ago - Report Abuse

Adam Trahim

Yea it will be a lot of work, or sanding even with a machine. But again that was in the ideal world :)

You can skip the etch primer and go straight to a waterproof primer. You could also skip sanding down the whole boat to metal, and still get a good lock down with a epoxy primer.

Etch primer is like etching a window, it bites into the metal with a chemical reaction So even if you "scrape" it off, it is still there. But it offers little to no real protection. What it does do is give a better adhesion to the metal then regular primer that uses a mechanical bond through sand scratched.

I mean Rustolem would prbably serve you well here, and be the cheapest way.


You can skip the etch and the primer and sand the boat and clean it then hit with rustolem. Should take about 5 or so cans to do a 10ft jon boat.

 

Also the can etch prmiers are normally not the best. The acid that etches the primer needs to be stored in a plastic container. They line the cans with plastic, but the stuff is still not as good as a true mixed etch.

No worries Ray!

Posted by Adam Trahim over 5 years ago - Report Abuse

Ray N

well i gave up! i did test areas and everything just scrapes off! no matter what prep work i do!

thinking just going to spray it and leave it and when it all scrapes off buy a fiberglass boat and start from scratch!!!!!!! LMAO

Posted by Ray N Elite Member over 5 years ago - Report Abuse

Ever Aguilar

 yeah man just leave it man who cares how it looks anyways as long as it floats.

Posted by Ever Aguilar Expert Member over 5 years ago - Report Abuse

Ray N

actually i tried one more thing and it appears to be sticking! once all is said and done i will post a pic

Posted by Ray N Elite Member over 5 years ago - Report Abuse

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